Showing posts with label camping fire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camping fire. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 12, 2016

OneTigris MOLLE Canteen Pouch Military 1000D Nylon 1 Quart Canteen Cover Pouch



OneTigris is a company who loves our customers and it shows in the quality of our work, our high level of customer service, and the affordable price we offer for the sports and outdoors gear, so that everyone can afford to enjoy life in the outdoors or sports by using  OneTigris.



OneTigris MOLLE Canteen Pouch Military 1000D Nylon 1 Quart Canteen Cover Pouch

• Military Specifications: INVISTA 1000D CORDURA Nylon Construction
• Perfect fit Nalgene 32 Oz oasis canteen, secured by Drawstring & Quick Release Buckle -- Holds your canteen in place and convenient for drinking without taking it out of the pouch
• Side Pockets: Two pockets on side with a velcro flap to hold contents securely, fit small knife, folding cutlery set, etc
• Molle Design: Can be attached to molle webbing vest, belt, bag, platform, backpack....etc
• A grommeted hole in the bottom to allow for leaking water or condensation to drain


About OneTigris Canteen Pouch:
Ideal for carrying 1 Quart Canteen kit, could also be used as utility pouch to keep small first aid kit or survival kit in.
Secured by Drawstring & Top Flap with Quick Release Buckle: Holds your canteen in place and convenient for drinking without taking it out of the pouch MOLLE System That Gives You the Option to Be Hands Free: Can be attached to molle webbing vest, belt, bag, platform, backpack....etc
Great for Outdoors Activities: Biking, Hiking, Backpacking, Camping...

OneTigris - Into The Wild


- Specification -
Material: 1000D CORDURA nylon
Weight: 180g
Size: 15*14*7cm








Monday, May 30, 2016

Best way to start a fire

The article shows 5 ways to start a fire.

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Friction-Based Fire Making
Rubbing two sticks together is likely the oldest of all -fire-starting techniques, and also the most difficult. Besides proper technique, you have to choose the right wood for the fireboard and spindle. Sets made from dry softwoods, including aspen, willow, cottonwood, and juniper, are preferred, although a spindle made from a slightly harder wood, combined with a softer fireboard, can also work. The friction of the spindle against an indentation in the fireboard grinds particles from both surfaces, which must heat to 800 degrees before a glowing coal forms. This must then be transferred to tinder and gently blown to life.
Hand Drill
Using a hand drill is one of the simplest friction methods, but high speed can be difficult to maintain because only the hands are used to rotate the spindle. It works best in dry climates.
Step One Cut a V-shaped notch in the fireboard, then start a small depression adjacent to it with a rock or knife tip. Set a piece of bark underneath the notch to catch the ember.
Step Two Place the spindle, which should be 2 feet long, in the depression and, maintaining pressure, roll it between the palms of your hands, running them quickly down the spindle in a burst of speed. Repeat until the spindle tip glows red and an ember is formed.
Step Three Tap the fireboard to deposit the ember onto the bark, then transfer it to a tinder bundle and blow it to flame.


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Two-Man Friction Drill
Two people can do a better job of maintaining the speed and pressure needed to create an ember using this string variation of a friction drill.
Step One Have one person apply downward pressure to the drill while the other uses a thong or shoelace to rapidly rotate the spindle.


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Fire Plough
This produces its own tinder by pushing out particles of wood ahead of the friction.
Step One Cut a groove in the softwood fireboard, then plough or rub the tip of a slightly harder shaft up and down the groove. The friction will push out dusty particles of the fireboard, which will ignite as the temperature increases.


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Pump Fire Drill
The Iroquois invented this ingenious pump drill, which uses a flywheel to generate friction. The crossbar and flywheel are made of hardwood; the spindle and fireboard are made from softwoods (as in the hand drill).
Step One Bore a hole in the center of a rounded piece of hardwood and force the spindle in so that it fits tightly. Select wood for the crossbar and bore a larger hole that will slide freely on the spindle.
Step Two Attach the crossbar to the top of the spindle with a leather thong or sturdy shoelace.
Step Three Wind up the flywheel so that the thong twists around the spindle, then press down. The momentum will rewind the crossbar in the opposite direction. Repeat until friction creates a glowing ember.

Bow Drill
Of all the friction -fire-starting methods, the bow drill is the most efficient at maintaining the speed and pressure needed to produce a coal, and the easiest to master. The combination of the right fireboard and spindle is the key to success, so experiment with different dry softwoods until you find a set that produces. Remember that the drill must be as hard or slightly harder than the fireboard.
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Step One Cut a notch at the edge of a round impression bored into the fireboard, as you would for a hand drill. Loosely affix the string to a stick bow, which can be any stout wood.


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Step Two Place the end of a wood drill the diameter of your thumb into the round impression, bear down on it with a socket (a wood block or stone with a hollow ground into it), catch the drill in a loop of the bowstring, then vigorously saw back and forth until the friction of the spinning drill produces a coal.

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Step Three Drop the glowing coal into a bird's nest of fine tinder, lift the nest in your cupped hands, and lightly blow until it catches fire.

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Why You Need a Shemagh in your Preparedness Gear

What is a “Shemagh“? Wikipedia tells us: A Shemagh, also known as a Keffiyeh, ghutrah, ḥaṭṭah, mashadah, chafiye, Sudra and cemedanî, is a traditional Middle Eastern headdress fashioned from a square, usually cotton, scarf. It is typically worn by Arab men, as well as some Kurds and Jews. For decades, keffiyeh have been issued to British soldiers who now, almost exclusively, refer to them as shemaghs. Their use by some units and formations of the military and police forces of the former British Empire and subsequent Commonwealth dates back to before the Second World War. Shemaghs are currently worn by special forces worldwide. The Shemagh is essentially a big bandana, usually a square measuring 42 or 44 inches on each side. They come in many colors. I personally have them in green, khaki and white, which should cover all seasons (for some quick head camouflage). What can you use a Shemagh, or a regular bandana for? Almost anything. I keep one in each of my family vehicles, camping kits and even carry one daily in my backpack for work.I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been caught, unexpectedly, outside in the sun, for long periods of time. This can be a life saver, even more so, for us fair skinned folk.
desert head scarf
head scarf
Some Shemagh uses:
01.Sun Protection for bald heads… or necks, for those of you with hair!
02.Cooling (soak with water and drape or tie it to your person)
03.Sweat Band
04.Dust Mask Face covering (conceal your identity, like a ninja)
05.Diffuse Light (put over flashlight or battery lantern)
06.Water pre-filter (remove sediment that could clog your water filter)
07.Water acquisition – Tie around ankles and walk through plants covered with dew. Wring into water container (or mouth)
08.Signaling flag
09.Trail marker
10.Tie to luggage or bag to make it identifiable
11.Hot pad or pot holder (metal or other cookware gets hot when you use it with fire)
12.Food cover (keep bugs off your food)
13.Tourniquet
14.Arm Sling
15.Use to secure a splint in place
16.Eye covering or eye patch
17.Scarf or Neck Warmer
18.Napkin
19.Washcloth
20.Towel
21.Dishtowel
22.Handkerchief (you may have a runny nose or sneezing)
23.bag for food collection or to help carry items Tie around sticks or branches to make a bundle (easier to carry)
24.Knife Wipe Cloth
25.Gun Wipe cloth or tear it up to make gun cleaning patches
26.windsock (check wind direction)
27.Tie down loose gear (on vehicles, belt or backpack)
28.use it to replace a busted backpack shoulder strap
29.belt
30.Hobo pack (pouch on end of a stick)
31.improvised diaper
32.improvised toilet paper (yuck)
33.Blindfold (I’m not even going to ask….)
34.Bullfighting cape (joking…or am I?) “Olé!”
The list of uses, for a shemagh, or a good bandana,  could go on and on, and would only be limited by your imagination. This list is just a sampling of, why you need a shemagh in your preparedness gear!
Copyright © GeekPrepper.org

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Camp Fire vs. Survival Fire vs. Cooking Fire

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Over the years I have seen a great deal of confusion between a camp fire, cooking fire and a survival fire. Main Stream Survival Media (Survival TV Shows) have shown us camp fires and cooking fires and portrayed them as fires fit to be survival fires. Another major discrepancy I see on these shows is the amount of firewood gathered/collected to last an entire night. I always seem to calculate how long their wood pile will last in my head and I can never reach more than an hour or two of substantial fire. I have been a long time…
Survival Fire/Long Fire:
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Notice the length of an survival fire is at a minimum the length of your head to waist to ensure core body warmth and this fire should never be allowed to die down to just coals but should have at least 1′ flames to ensure your warmth through even the coldest night. Ideally a survival fire should be the entire length of your body to ensure maximum warmth (if it were the dead of winter I would make the same fire full length of my body and have flames roughly the height of the shelter). Notice that pile of wood to the rear of the fire, that amount of wood is more than I have ever seen on any survival show and that was just one of my three piles of wood to get me from 3am until daylight. I had a larger pile just out of frame opposite of shelter to act as a quasi wind break if needed and one by my body to be within arms reach so I could easily fuel the fire throughout the night. Quick tip for survival fires to increase your warmth throughout the night: assuming you are laying directly on the ground or on a pine limb bed you can start your fire initially where your bed will be located as you gather firewood for the night. Then you cover the coal bed with a small layer of dirt (1-2″) which will heat you from below as you get reflective heat from your shelter (in survival every advantage counts!). 

Cooking Fires:

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1) There are several varieties of cooking fires and the one pictured above is one I use for boiling, remember boil over flame, cook over coals. The flame should nearly engulf the pot to ensure a quick boil, this fire would then be reduced to a very low flame that does not reach the bottom of the pot or merely a coal base to continue to cook soup after boiling. Firewood needed: mix of hard and soft wood to get a strong fire base going and enough to keep a strong flame for a minimum of 15 minutes (normal boil time for an 8 qt. pot).
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2) Strong coal base (hardwoods burnt down) on the sides of the fire with a low and slow flame in the center (using dense hardwoods). This is my multipurpose cooking fire in which I use the center of the fire to slow cook soups (great for venison chilli) and the exterior coal base to cook breads or anything that requires slow cooking. Firewood needed: softwoods to get the fire going and 4-6 arm sized logs to build a strong coal base  and an additional two logs and a few smaller sticks (finger sized) to keep flame in the center if needed.
3) The Dakota Fire Pit/Hole: This cooking fire is extremely effective when you only have a very limited amount of firewood to deal with. With this fire one can easily cook an entire meal with on wrist sized stick that is roughly 6′ long. A true one stick fire, to utilize the bark for a birds nest for fire starting, batoned sticks down to finger sized sticks and feed as needed to fuel your fire. This is a very efficient fire so don’t allow the flame above the level of the ground to allow for the best cooking environment possible.
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4) Swedish Torch: See My Review of this Fire Method Here (LINK). As some of you may know I’m not a huge fan of this method with out a chain saw and I don’t carry a chain saw with me into the woods so this method of cooking is rarely used by me. It is fairly effective once you get the fire going and is a sort of upside down fire that seems to work best for larger bush pots (after about 30 minutes anything bottle sized will simply tip over as there isn’t enough support for such a small surface area). I personally chalk it up to a campground or base camp fire where you want to impress someone with a camp trick, but hundreds of people love this method, I guess I’m just a little too attached to my tripod cooking method when in the woods.

Camp Fire:

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This is what I see the most of on survival TV shows a mid-sized fire with little to no reserve wood to continue the fire once the base burns down. This is the type of fire that you roast a marshmallow over or cook a hot dog on yet at the same time this fire can easily evolve into a long fire or into a cooking fire once a coal bed is established.  This fire basically consists of softwood and hard wood mixed together (think tepee of softwood with a log cabin of hard woods around it or an upside down fire) and is usually a fire lay that is roughly knee height. Reserve fire wood for this type of fire would be minimal hard wood to help extend the fire an hour or two in case conversations abound.

Today’s survival media has provided us with a misguided sense of what a survival fire is and what it takes to maintain one. In all of the “survival” TV show’s I have watched I have yet to see anyone truly explain a long fire/survival fire or the fire requirement of this type of fire without the ability to cut substantial fire wood (i.e. no available ave or substantial belt knife). So I thought I would create this post to right the wrongs I believe have been done to those who unfortunately learn from survival TV. So please remember a survival fire is a big fire that is at least as long as your torso and you can never have enough fire wood. Once you have a pile of sticks you pick up off the ground that is to your waist take a breath and then realize you need at least one or two more piles that size to make it through the night warm! So survival fire rules to live by: 1) big fire=survival fire; 2) you never have enough fire wood; 3) if you can cheat in a survival situation do it, Mother nature never fights fair! (i.e. hot coals buried under your bed); 4) If you can make a more substantial shelter to control your core temperature better by all means take that advantage.